Arizona Road Tour

October 31, 2010

Well, the family road tour is over.

Arizona is indeed a beautiful place. The scenery is stunning. It’s epic and surreal in its scale. At times raw and rugged, or polished smooth, or forest covered. Desert and canyons, where a palette of fiery reds, burnt oranges and deciduous greens shift hue with each passing hour, or cloud, or retreating, last light shadow of the day. Mottled with golden aspens in the north, or spiked with prickly fingers of cacti further south.

We’ve covered more mileage in seven days than I could have hoped to do in a month on my bicycle. And although I’ve really enjoyed it, I must say I’ll be glad to get back on two wheels, self-propelled.

It’s funny. Although the car symbolises freedom for many, I haven’t felt so confined since the beginning of my journey. Ultimately, it’s the same kind of rhythm. Travel, eat, sleep and repeat. Just an accelerated one.

Yet somehow, I find the simple act of cycling gives context to everything around me. Riding from one place to the next keeps things real and connected. This last week has reminded me how much I value being out in the open air, free to stop and take photos, chat to weird and wonderful people, or quietly pitch my tent under the stars for the night. When it comes to travel, it’s each to their own. Cycle touring may not be for everyone, but for me, it’s soul food, the perfect antithesis to the stifling, airtight whoosh of cars.

I only have a couple of weeks before resuming my journey south, but there’s lots on my to do list. I should give my bike a thorough overhaul, write up a couple of overdue cycling features, and I’d love to ride Moab’s White Rim trail and visit Santa Fe. Hopefully, I’ll be giving a talk on the journey so far over at BikeTrailerShop, in downtown Flagstaff. And a fleeting return to New Mexico’s Silver City would be great too…

We didn't have much luck with the weather during our visit to the Grand Canyon, though the moody storms did make for some dramatic views. This is the incredible panorama from Shoshone Point. I'd love to come back and hike in the canyon itself.

Closing in on Monument Valley, just over the border in Utah, and the backdrop to many a John Ford western.

And as an avid fan of this film maker, it had been dad's dreams to visit the valley. We stayed in the incredible, and appropriately named, View Hotel on the Navajo Reservation. Despite its contemporary architecture, from afar the hotel is completely camouflaged amongt the surrounding rock striations. Najavo run and owned, its interior is beautifully bedecked with local art, yet refreshingly down to earth. A memorable stay, though I did notice the free campsite next door shared that same stunning view...

We arrived in time for sunset, just as a dark shadow was spilling across the valley. Keen to get out on a run, I followed the Wild Cat Trail that looped around the central, awe-inspiring redrock butte in this photo, listening to Neil Young on my MP3 player. An amazing experience...

We also made it to the San Carlos Reservation, on the outskirts of Globe. Unfortunately, our accommodation for the night was a motel adjoining the Apache Gold Casino... The windowless halls, strip lighting, slot machines and incessant, electronic noise left me numb, so I watched Law and Order reruns instead.

This is the former copper mining town of Jerome, perched high in the valley and looking out over Cottonwood and Sedona. A far cry from its boom times of the 1920s, Jerome's population has now shrunk from 15 000 to 450, a large portion of whom are artists and artisans.

The basketball court at the alternative settlement of Jerome. Note well positioned peace symbol...

"Mall Wart. Your source for cheap plastic crap."

The remains of Main Street, home to the Connor Hotel, our characterful lodging for the night. Although nowadays Jerome is clearly a tourist town, its well worth visiting for its pastel coloured, Victorian houses and red brick warehouses that have been beautifully restored. Rare in the US, there wasn't even a corporate motel in sight.

This establishment dates back to 1898. Built by an Irish American, it was billed as second to none in the Southwest.

Historical information panels bring the town's eclectic history to life. A few buildings along was Jennie's Place, built by the legendary madam, Jennie Bauters from Belgium. At the time of her murder in 1905, she was reputed to be the wealthiest woman in the Arizona territory.

Jerome is also famed for its Halloween and Day of the Dead celebrations, being so close to Mexico.

Americana detail. Guns, whether for real or hanging on a wall, are part of the American way - as seen on this beaten up Chevrolet.

And the venerable Ford F series, another photo for my collection. This is a truck that's kept me company all the way from Alaska to Guatemala...

My full kit: the GF1, plus lenses, EVF and battery charger.

Several people have asked me what kind of camera I use, so I figured I’d write up a post on the Lumix GF1, especially as it’s taken a big dip in price recently.

I started this journey out with a Nikon D300, a superb DSLR that’s given me little cause for complaint. But I’d long been looking for a lighter, less bulky alternative that wouldn’t compromise image quality and camera control as much as an in-the-pocket Point and Shoot. Taking photos is important to me – not only is it a process I really enjoy, but it’s part of the way I’m financing this cycling trip.

First off, the GF1 is a Micro Four Thirds (MFT) camera. For anyone not au fait with the latest in digital camera jargon, this basically means it uses a slightly smaller sensor than a standard APS-C DSLR – like the Nikon D90 or Canon Rebel. Which, along with the fact that it’s forgone the traditional mirror found in an SLR, means the sensor can be housed in a far smaller, and shallower, camera body. The good news is you still get the versatility of interchangeable lenses. One downside is the (in this case optional) viewfinder is digital rather than optical, which can take some getting used to.

Looks-wise, the GF1 shares its form with an old rangefinder, which I like. Very discreet. And once those attention-seeking logos have been camouflaged with black electrical tape, it’s even more so.

I’m not going to go into any technical blurb here, as this model is over a year old, and you can find all that kind of information online. DPreview is a good place to start. Besides, there are several newer models in the Lumix and Olympus ranges – the pioneers of the MFT system – and I’m sure there’ll be a GF2 before too long. Similar in principle, albeit with a slightly larger sensor (which promises better low light performance) is Sony’s NEX camera. Also part of the compact mirrorless and interchangeable lens gang is Samsung’s NX100.

So, instead of a technical shakedown, here’s a few thoughts on how this system fares for travel – and in particular, biking. Of course, you can’t expect to shoehorn everything into one camera this size, and coming from a semi-pro Nikon with a handful of fast lenses, I was bound to see a few differences. But the important point is to remind yourself what you really want from a camera, and how you realistically use it day to day.

With this in mind, here’s a few likes and dislikes…

What I like:

Extremely light and compact. The whole system, with a clutch of three lenses, feels lighter than the Nikon D300 body with a just single prime lens. It’s not until you put them side by side that you really appreciate how Lilliputian the GF1 is, and realise that because of this, a direct comparison between the two cameras is largely moot.

On a similar note, I like how modular this system is. With the electronic viewfinder removed and its pancake 20mm lens fitted, this camera really is extremely discreet, especially given the image quality is produces. It barely draws a second glance when wrapped up in its Panasonic soft case. Not Point and Shoot small, but small enough never to feel the need to leave behind, often the case with my DSLR.

Likewise, the GF1 looks very low key, which makes me more comfortable using it in Central America. People freak out less when they see it, and tend to act more naturally.

Interchangeable, high quality yet compact lenses. The 20mm 1.7 (which translates to a 40mm in 35mm language) is super discreet, sharp and offers great for depth of field control. The 14-45mm (28mm to 90mm) is a good all rounder, and lives on the camera much of the time. It’s sharp too. And the 45-200mm (90-400mm) is ideal for compressing those massive mountain views, and giving that sense of scale often missed with a wide angle. Likewise, no complaints with sharpness. More options are appearing all the time, though pricing is still high for faster lenses compared to their DSLR cousins.

It’s not as quick as an SLR for action photography, but there’s less camera shutter lag than the fasted Point and Shoot.

Likewise, while it’s not quite as easy to adjust manual settings as an DLSR, it’s far easier to control than a Point and Shoot.

In my eyes, image quality is very good. It exposes well, with great colours once I’ve run the RAW images through Lightroom. I use a profile I made that aims to be similar to the in-camera vivid JPG setting.

Battery life is good enough. I carry two spares, though I rarely find myself needing the third before I find a spot to plug in.

Build quality is good. Bike travel pushes camera build quality to its limits, especially if you favour dusty, muddy, dirt tracks… After a year on the road, the GF1 is holding up well – and I should add I don’t pamper my cameras. A ‘pro’ model with better sealing would of course be welcome…

There’s a whole range of lens adaptors to run the likes of Leica and Nikons, in manual focus mode, though I haven’t done so myself yet. At some point, I’d like to try my Nikon 50mm 1.8, which would give me a 100mm portrait lens.

Camouflaged GF1. Most people think it's an old film camera.

What I don’t like:

Prices are coming down, but they’re still high compared to the more popular DSLRs.

The GF1 isn’t as quick as my DSLR, both to switch on, and between each shot. It’s more of a challenge for action photography and I miss the responsiveness of the D300. That said, it’s way faster than a Point and Shoot.

Shutter speed maxes out at 1/4000 second, so to make the most of my 1.7 20mm prime in bright sunlight, I really need a ND filter.

A quibble. When I’m using the digital viewfinder rather than the rear display to take a shot, I’d like the camera to automatically revert to the EVF mode after I’ve checked a picture. As it is, it’s a bit fiddly to switch between the two shooting modes. Some models with built in EVFs have sensors to do this, like the GH2.

I miss the clarity optical viewfinder, though I soon got used to the digital one. It’s better than nothing in bright sunlight, and handy for exposing your shot.

The EVF seems a little delicate, though it’s holding up ok so far. It’s not as ergonomic as a built in viewfinder, so can get snagged when I’m hurriedly pulling it out or packing it away.

When changing lenses, the sensor is exposed. It hasn’t been as much of an issue as I was expecting, but I have noticed some dust specks I need to deal with.

Low light performance isn’t up there with larger DSLRs, but is way better than a Point and Shoot.

Not as much depth of field control as my Nikon D300, both due to the smaller sensor, and because the lenses that aren’t as fast. It’s that size conumdrum again – fast lenses are inevitably big and heavy.

While I’m not convinced I need a proper wide angle lens, I’d love to see a 12mm prime (or 24mm in 35mm terms) to compliment the walkaround 14-45mm. I really miss that extra bit of coverage.

Likewise, I’d like to invest in a reasonably fast portrait lens, like the 45mm 2.8 Panasonic/Leica (90mm in 35mm terms) – but one that doesn’t cost over $800! I’ll probably look into getting a mount for my 50mm 1.8 Nikon lens, which will double to 100mm for MFT use.

The GF1 and 20mm lens, wrapped up in Panasonic's pricey but well made case.

Other notes:

I ended up investing in the removable EVF – the digital viewfinder. It’s ridiculously overpriced and the quality could be better, but it does make a big difference to using the camera with the 45-200mm lens and in bright sunlight. I’d probably look at models with inbuilt EVFs next time – like the soon to be released GH2.

I do miss the low light performance of my Nikon D300. With a little care care, I’m pretty happy with anything up to ISO 800 on the GF1. Bear in mind too that without the mirrow slap, you can shoot at slower shutter speeds.

Processing images on the move

To get the best from this camera, I’d recommend take your images in RAW format, rather than in-camera JPGS. The downside to this is that if you’ll need a netbook or similar to process them. I use Lightroom 2 with a Samsung NC10. While I’d highly recommend this particular model of netbook for general bike travel, bear in mind that it runs Lightroom extremely slowly and can’t handle Lightroom 3. As an alternative, look into this free piece of software, http://www.photoscape.org. The NC10 has held up amazingly well to the rigours of bike travel. Aside from a few keys that have needed to be reassigned – I dread to think how much dirt and dust in there – it’s still chugging along nicely.

The new, 1kg Macbook Air 11in looks like it could be the ideal solution to running more powerful imaging programs on the move – if you have a spare $1000…

Backing up

I back all my images up onto a Western Digital My Passport portable hard drive, like this one. Hard drives keep plummeting in price and are available all over the Americas. I’ve bought several over the course of the journey and sent them home with friends, rather than tracking down CD/DVD burners in local Internet Cafes. I also try and make a secondary backup for my favourite shots onto a 16GB Sandisk Cruzer memory stick, which I stash in a different place on my bike.

I’d be more selective with the images I keep if I ran a more powerful computer, saving hard drive space. As it is, my NC10 is so slow to preview images in Lightroom that it works out far quicker to create a favourites folder, and leave the rest unedited.

Mac Update: I’ve been using a Macbook Intel Core 2 Duo this last week and noticed the 16GB Cruzer was considerably slower than on my Windows XP netbook. Also, the latest My Passport drive (slimmer, and slightly wider) I have can be read by the Mac, but can’t have any files written or changed. It seems guess the drive needs to be formatted in FAT32 first for dual compatibility. Interestingly, the previous My Passport model works fine jumping between the two.

Don't forget to make your backups. A WD My Passport portable hard drive and Sandisk 16GB Cruzer memory stick. Both are cheap and easily available.

Conclusion:

It’s all too easy to pore over every word written in reviews and photographic forums (I do it all the time), and risk becoming overly obsessed with the minutae of each camera’s technical abilities. Sure, the GF1 can’t match a mid range DSLR on paper, which is just as you’d expect from its size.

Yet when it comes to really using the camera, out in the real world – or at least in the way that I do, for online images and publishing in the bike press – there’s far less of a quality difference than you’d imagine. With better low light performance, the gap would be even smaller.

Ultimately the GF1, and indeed, this style of mirrorless camera, is a great creative tool. It’s light enough to carry all day without a second thought, but versatile enough not to hinder your sense of photographic control. It encourages a slightly different style to the way you use it, which in turn opens up different avenues in the way you take pictures.

In conclusion, I’d say the GF1, and probably most other Micro Four Thirds models, are all but ideal for lightweight travel, particularly on two wheels. The camera and a second lens easily fit in my bar bag, and I can even carry all my lenses on a super lightweight tour, like the AZT. If I was to continue using the D300 travel, I’d feel the need for a second, more low key compact camera, a high end Point and Shoot like a Lumix LX5. Which means yet more kit to travel with…

As it is, the GF1 bridges the two perfectly.

Other opinions:

Mike travels with a GF1 and knows how to take a picture. His thoughts are here.

More realworld opinions, and great photos, by Craig in the Himalayas.

Ideal for street shots.

Not too obtrusive for portraits.

Nice depth of field control.

Tough enough: the GF1 has survived temperatures ranging from -20c to +44c.

The 14-45mm (28-90) lens lives on the camera much of the time.

The 45-200mm (90-400) is surprisingly sharp.

Great colour rendition.

Easy to use on the move.

And discreet...

Family post alert!

So, my riding days are over, for a couple of weeks at least, while my mum visits from England. She’ll be joined by my dad, an avid enthusiast of American frontier history. Together, we’re setting off on a short road tour around Utah, Arizona and New Mexico. In a Toyota Prius, hopefully (-;

The more time I spend in Flagstaff, the more I like it. There’s a vibrant bike community and a laid back, liberal air. North of the Arizona’s parched dry deserts, it also boasts a stunning setting, surrounded as it is by swathes of ponderosa pines intermingled with aspens, below the mighty 12633ft Humprey’s Peak. Best of all, you can ride straight out of town onto the trails, so none of that ‘driving to go for a bike ride’ scenario.

Josh’s BikeTrailerShop is based here too, as are two custom framebuilders, Coconico and Sendero. It’s definitely up there in my top three cities in the US, along with Missoula, Montana, and Silver City, New Mexico.

M(o)m getting friendly with the locals.

 

I've always loved murals. and Flagstaff isn't short on them.

 

Weird but wonderful flamingo display in a random back yard.

 

With halloween round the corner, each one was suitably dressed up to share in the festivities.

 

A veritable riot of fall colours.

 

Classic old Ford. Love the baby blue finish.

 

This one too. One in every household, so it seemed.

 

Don't they say it was the truck that built America?

 

More street mooching... We're both happy to potter round the streets and sit in Macy's cafe, a wonderful hangout, rather than tick off the list of tourist sites.

 

Flagstaff has retained its fair share of old Americana details, with its railway line bisecting town and weather faded placards dotting the streets. In the 1890s, this was one of the busiest railways corridors in the US.

 

Josh had kindly offered to lend us a tandem. We have yet to take him on this, but we did rent a car (yes, a Toyota Prius) to drive up into the hills for a hike around the Snowbowl. Incidentally, these cars are impressively economical. I reckon we drove more than 120 miles for just over $6, with no pollution in town.

 

The six and a half mile road makes a great climb, and roadies were out in full force. This is near where I camped while riding the AZT, which skirts below the Snowbowl.

 

Whispering aspens.

 

And south, via a series of precarious switchbacks, to the deserts of low lying Sedona, just 30 miles away. It was a bare knuckled drive. With mum at the wheel - I mislaid my license - it was almost as exhausting as riding. For both of us.

 

Well worth the trip though, with its slabs of redrock, mesas, and cacti. To keep me from going stir crazy, I've dusted off my trail running shoes, which will help supplement our more sedate walks. I'll have to return one day on two wheels, as there's some great mountain biking there too.

 

Ma.


Photographic footnote:

This is the first post in a year or more that the pictures are not from the lovely little Lumix GF1. My mother brought the Nikon D300 I used before I investing in the Micro 4/3rds system, as I have some bike mag work to do here. I’d forgotten what a massive camera it is. While I’ve missed having a wide angle and my 50mm 1.8 (the lenses used for the pictures above), I’ve definitely not missed the weight. I think the camera and a prime lens weighs more than my complete GF1 setup…

Still on the AZT theme, here’s some pictures from the ride between Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon. I didn’t have time to meet up with the AZT crew in time to travel this section with them, so I set off to ride it solo as soon as I got back. The distance? Around 110 miles, a heady blend of sweet singletrack and easy going jeep trails. I split them up into two short days on either side of a longer one, to allow for scarce water points along the way. And, because I love to camp out…

There’s no riders to add a sense of scale to the surroundings, but hopefully the beauty of the fall colours, the open meadows, the solitude of the desert and the phenomenal Grand Canyon vistas go some way to lending a feel for what proved to be a highlight of the AZT.

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Camping out on the Snowbowl, at over 9000 feet.

 

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Afternoon views from my tent. Later that evening, James, who’d joined me on the climb, returned with a feast of baguettes, cheese, salami and red wine… Amazing! In a coincidental twist, I discovered James's best friend lives at Silver City's Bike House - home to bikers, chickens and giant puppets - where I spent a fantastic week last year on the journey south through New Mexico.

 

Snowbowl views.

 

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Mellow singletrack through the aspens.

 

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Done that bit…

 

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The advantage of riding the AZT so late is the blanket of fall colours.

 

Morning dew…

 

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More whispering, shimmering aspen groves.

 

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Sublime singletrack across the grassy meadows, before the massive, swooping descent off Snowbowl. One of the best stretches of trail on the whole ride.

 

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Then forest gives way to desert, and the trail opens out into some fast jeep track…

 

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… across a vast, clear sky.

 

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Th AZT wound on past a couple of ranches. Cattle troughs provided dubious water possibilities, so I waited until Russel Tank, a marshy body of water 30 miles out of the Grand Canyon.

 

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The place to myself… And not a hike n' bike in sight!

 

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So many camping possibilites… Just be sure to carry enough water.

 

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A happy rider.

 

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Not so happy feet. All our hike ‘n biking antics had chewed up my toes over the last couple of weeks.

 

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A ponderosa pine early in the morning. Soon after, I met Rose and Jon, a mountain biking couple from Anchorage, Alaska. Another coincidence ensued. Incredibly, Alan, in whose yard I'd camped nearly 15 months ago at the very beginning of my journey, was the best man at their wedding!

 

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The Grand Canyon. It just appears, as if from nowhere… A massive, gaping hole between two lands.

 

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A palette of auburn colours, ever shifting with each change in light.

 

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Surreal in its size and depth…

 

Thanks to Kyle at Bright Angel bike rentals for giving me a lift back to Flagstaff.

More pictures from the AZT

October 18, 2010

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The AZT Chain Gang - Welsh, English and soon-to-be Canadian.

Here’s some more pictures from the AZT – you can find the first batch over here. They’re in no particular order I’m afraid. Anyone planning a similar ride will have to wait for Cen to update his blog with a more thorough report, along with info and stats gleaned from the GPS – though I’ll try and add in more details as I remember them.

I rode the portion between Flagstaff and Nogales, along with Rocket Scott, Cen and Nerys, who’d already ridden down from the Utah border. Then I returned to Flagstaff to ride solo some of what I’d missed – more on that later. I’ll try and post some details of the kit we were carrying too.

First things first though. For those who haven’t heard about the AZT, it’s an 800 mile multi-use trail, a blend of singletrack and dirt roads developed and maintained by volunteers, running from Arizona’s border with Utah, all the way down to Mexico. En route, it passes through the Grand Canyon (bikes have to be shouldered and hiked, or shuttled round), as well as national forests, lakes, deserts and groves of enormous, spiney cacti. The official hiking AZT also traverses a series of Wilderness Areas but these are closed to bikers; these can generally be diverted round on dirt tracks.

Although it is, in theory, a multi-use trail, large parts of the journey are definitely hard work on a bicycle; extended pushes through sandy washes, hard fought battles with flesh-piercing thorn bushes, and hike ‘n bikes across loose, bouldery gullies that may well – just for the rarest, briefest of moments – challenge your concept of what’s enjoyable on a bike. Plus, there’s the added element that water points are few and far between, particularly over late summer, the time of year we rode it.

Quite apart from the slow going progress of riding so much singletrack, this in itself can dictate how you break up the ride. We left camp in the morning with five litres each in bottles and bladders; or ten litres on the odd occasion we were expecting a dry camp. Thanks to all the astute planning and research from tripmaesters Scott and Cen, it all worked out really well. Only once did we suffer a particularly parched night, where I had to eek out half a litre of water over the evening and morning. During a fitful sleep, I dreamt vivid, water-themed dreams… Few people have yet to through-ride the entire route unsupported – maybe just ten – so there’s not too much info online. Those who have, tend to start in the spring, alleviating some of the water carrying issues.

Bear in mind too that although much of the AZT is rideable in some form or other, it still needs a good deal of work to make it more bike friendly – which is understandable, given that it’s only just been completed and is maintained purely by volunteers. Eventually, a set of bike-specific maps suggesting diversions to the more extreme hike ‘n bike sections and detours around the Wilderness Area would be handy – similar to those on the Great Divide. As it is, we downloaded the excellent route notes suggested by Scott Morris and fed them into the GPS – a must for navigating the unmarked desert trails.

But don’t let all this put you off. The AZT is an incredible experience and I can only see it getting better and better as it becomes more established. It’s definitely a sizeable notch up in terms of challenges compared to touring the longer Great Divide Mountain Bike Ride, and one I’d really recommend to anyone who wants to blend lightweight touring with some amazing mountain biking…

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Out in the heat and thornbush corridors south of Tucson.

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Cen swoops round through some sublime singletrack on the mesa above Flagstaff.

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Although Arizona is associated with parched desert and cacti, much of the northern section of the ride meanders in and out of shaded pine forests.

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Amongst a particularly gruelling hike 'n bike along the Highline Trail ('maintained' by the girl scouts, as the signboard proudly proclaimed), a couple of brief but beautiful, redrock riding sections offered respite.

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Ace framebag builder Scott is in the business of storage, albeit it of the ultralight variety. Here he is with full kit loaded up on his Rick Hunter 29er. He decked out all with our bikes with similar custom framebags, helping us to ride technical terrain without the clutter and weight of panniers.

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One of the many unrideable slogs along the pipeline track to Oracle. This one went on for miles. Up and down. Up and down…

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More of those wonderful, fingery saguaro cacti. Each one really seemed to have its own character.

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The thorns we had to contend with. We ran a mixture of tubeless tyres and slime-filled inner tubes, so actually suffered very few punctures.

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Our bikes were as light as we could run them, making the odd fence crossing a whole lot easier than it would be with panniers or a trailer. The 'bikepacking' framebag setup is definitely the way to go for this ride.

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Hitching passage on Scott’s monster wheel.

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We didn’t see this perfectly camouflaged rattlesnake until we almost trod on it, at which point it started shaking its rattle furiously. Scott lobbed a stone in its direction to move it on, accidentally hitting it on the bonce – driving it into further apoplexy.

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Gentle folds in the mountains near Mount Lemmon, in the beautiful Santa Catalina Mountains. Here began a 5000ft climb.

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And the fun, slickrock-style technical descent from Summerhaven to the massive urban sprawl of Tuscon on the other side.

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Tuscon is home to a large airforce base, and tankbusters regularly screeched overhead. While there, I cycled round the fenceline of the ‘Boneyard’. Thousands of decommissioned military planes stretch for mile after mile into the desert, in perfect symmetry. It was a eery place; despite the billions of wasted war dollars, there was a strange sense of geometrical beauty to the place.

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Far from home. A retired US Coast Guard plane, perfectly preserved in the dry Tuscon air.

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The nearby Pima Air and Space Museum was home to the likes of this Mach 3 Lockheed Blackbird, dating back to the late 60s.

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As well as squadrons of fighter jets, set dramatically against the burnt blue sky with their inscect-like proboscis.

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Massive, ominous-looking bombers, dwarfing all those around them.

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And these goofy looking helicopters.

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A world apart from all this military hardware, lay the liberal, hippy settlement of Patagonia, 18 miles from border with Mexico. Still a long way from its namesake in Argentina though…

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This is the peaceful, grassy courtyard around its impressive library. Although we all carried handheld email-gathering devices, I took advantage of the many small libraries in settlements we rode through – which also sold second hand books for less than a dollar.

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Behind this fence lay a clutter of motorbikes and bicycles. America is full of junk of all shapes and sizes.

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Arizona isn’t just deserts… This is the calm, clear water of Theodore Roosevelt Lake.

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My fascination for US gas guzzlers continues…

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Apache Canyon, where we stopped for a refreshing swim.

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Riding the 'wash' down the tight and narrow Box Canyon.

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South of Colossal Cave. That day we rode some 30 miles of sweet singletrack.

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Art deco store fronts along Superior's main drag. Despite its diminutive size and ghost town feel, it was one of my favourite resting spots on the ride.

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Superior’s saloon. Cowboy hats and bicycle helmets welcome.

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Arizona's trademark crisp, golden light coats the Superstition Mountains, just a few miles from the stripmall sprawl of Apache Junction.

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Riding dirt roads out of Payson to skirt round one of the Wilderness Areas closed to bikers.

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Although most of the AZT is on dirt roads and singletrack, bikers will need to cover some stretches along paved highways too. Most have a generous shoulder.

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A freight train passes overhead, breaking the silence of the desert as it clatters endlessly by.

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Sonoita, a cowboy community en route to Nogales, on the Mexican border.

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There, we briefly left the desert to cross a swathe of prairieland and cattle ranches.

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Rush hour in this tiny junction settlement.

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Tasty. Chewy beef jerky, that omnipresent American snack, which we mixed in with dehydrated soups…

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Late afternoon. Road riding to Patagonia. Just a day left until we reached the border.

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Nogales USA (left side) and Nogales Mexico (right side). Never the two shall meet…

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Adios AZT crew!

The AZT crew - Scott, Cen and Nerys at Nogales, on the Mexican border.

So, after an epic time riding the Arizona Trail I’m now back in Flagstaff. Here’s just a few words and pics, more on what the AZT is all about as soon as I’ve sifted through the rest of my dusty memory cards.

In the meantime Josh, over at Bike Trailer Shop, is making me feel very much at home, giving me the lowdown on Flagstaff and introducing me to the local bike community here. And I have the visit of my folks to look forward to too…

Welcome to Arizona.

Land of many cacti.

Including my favourite, the beanpole saguaros...

And home to small town Americana.

Some gnarly riding. Steeper than it looks...

It was hot. 107 degrees farenheit hot.

Pavement ends. Arizona Trail begins...

Parched dry on the pipeline road to Oracle.

Hike 'n Bike, a phrase that became synonymous with the AZT.

As did the word Wash, which cropped up with ever increasing regularity as we headed south. Translation: a 3 mile push through deep sand under blazing heat.

Nothing to do with personal hygiene, Scott. Just like it reads on his sweat-encrusted jersey: friends don't let friend ride junk. Our bikes? A Moots, a Hunter, a Thorn and a Charge. Clearly showering proved less important than the wheels on which were rolled.

Now now boys. Behave. Clearly Cen's reputation in the Swansea courts proceeded him.

Sweet Flagstaffian singletrack.

Surprising splashes of colour amongst the pine forest.

Nerys v the mountains.

Cen v the babyheads.

Beginning the beautiful, beguiling climb up to Mount Lemmon.

One of our favourite wildcamps.

Hopping across an old railroad - the South West is steeped in frontier history.

Hm, which way next... Checking the sage-like GPS, a must for riding the Arizona Trail.

A buzzard soars over Apache Canyon.

Don't be fooled by Scott's impressive farmer's tan. It did rain. Once.

Last but not least. Emergency ride food. American-style.

Cen succumbs to the American mantra: supersize me...

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