‘Homeward’ bound.
September 23, 2011
The surgeon’s waved the green flag. One more visit to the specialist awaits. Lungs seem to be expanding and contracting in the way they should, bar a little percussive rattliness here and there. In any case, they’re functioning well enough for me to take advantage of the British Airways sale and book a flight back to the Americas.
My plan is to return to Ecuador to pick up where I left off. Despite my unhurried progress on my original journey south, plenty of stones were left unturned. I’ll be making the most of the journey back (and saving some cash in the process) by flying via Denver, Colorado, in the first week of October. I’m allowing some time to plug a gap in the Great Divide Mountain Bike route I tackled in 2009 – Steamboat Springs to Grants NM – before I was forced off course by by a little snow… Although I’m earlier in the year this time, I’m not as early as I’d hoped. October in Colorado can be a time of pristine skies and fall colours, or the unleashing of the first of its winter storms. We shall see which I’m lucky enough to get.
With two weeks to go by departure, I’m simplifying again: whittling down kit and prepping my bike. It’s all too easy to to accumulate, even after just a few months in a fixed abode. Living out of just a few panniers again will feel good.
I’m also doing my best to claw some of my lost fitness. Last Saturday, it was a ride in the beautiful Black Mountains, Wales. Tuesday, a tour around Banksy’s Bristol with the Bicycle Festival. Yesterday evening, a singletrack night loop of my local woodland trails, Ashton Court. A day ride to Clevedon’s Victorian pier awaits on Sunday.
The reality of returning to South America is starting to sink in. It feels like I still have a million things to do, but I’m excited at the idea of being back on the road soon…
A place where they only ride bikes.
September 7, 2011
Try out time: Tout Terrain Mule
September 7, 2011
There is little to match the sense of freedom experienced from travelling ultralight, especially if your aspirations take you off road. But there are also times when more stowage space in needed, whether that be for hauling winter gear, several days of food, or to help share the workload with a riding partner.
I’ve just got my hands on a Tout Terrain Mule to try out – a high end, offroad trailer designed for just that in mind. And when I say high end, that’s certainly what I mean. The price tag? A cool 669 Euros, as ridden. I haven’t toured with a single wheel trailer for some time, though on past travels I’ve run the whole gamut of the trailer world, including BOB’s Yak and Ibex, the Weber Monoporter and the Extrawheel.

Beeep, beeep. Long vehicle approaching.
Tout Terrain build some lovely, steel touring bikes, easily recognised by their seamlessly integrated rear racks. Their modern designs embrace technology, with disc-specific frames and even air shock suspension – aspects that may disturb more traditional bike-tourists. Their products also include the nifty ‘Plug‘, a device that nests in the stem, transforming your peddling toils into juice for an ipod or USB-powered device, as well as a very high end, suspended child trailer.
You can read all the spes of the Mule elsewhere, so this is just a quick rundown on what’s caught my eye… Realworld feedback will follow soon.
A different animal
The steel-framed Mule stands out from the other animals for a few reasons.
Firstly, it attaches to the seat post rather than the dropouts of the frame. Lifting the coupling point on a single wheel trailer and bringing it towards the middle of the bike reduces the sense of ‘fighting’ your cargo, both when tackling rough terrain, or simply when wheeling the bike around. First impressions are that it tugs less than the likes of the BOB Yak, with a noticeably tighter turning circle, which is handy for U-turns. On the downside, the forward position of the pivot point means the trailer tracks differently, cutting corners, which can be an issue in twisty singletrack or when weaving in and out of traffic.
The Mule also uses a 20in wheel over the Yak’s 16in, which roles better and catches less on rocks and steps. At the same time, the adjustable air suspension controls dampening, so the trailer doesn’t pogo up and down after each bump. There’s a downside here too – you’ll need to carry an air shock pump to adjust the pressure, and the shock will need to be serviced every once in a while.
Trailers can be awkward to deal with when you’re riding solo. The Mule also includes a built in stand, making loading and unloading your gear at the bookends of the day significantly easier. It’s handy too when pulling over to take a photo.
Trailer v Panniers
I’m not going to slog out all the advantages and disadvantages of a trailer versus panniers. Some people love them, others hate them. So here’s an overview, from a personal perspective.
Trailer Good
For the kind of riding I enjoy, the main benefit to a single wheel trailer is the ability to carry more kit (cold weather gear/food/camera stuff), without loading up the suspension fork with front panniers, or piling everything up at the back of the bike and throwing off the weight distribution.
Of course, this applies to people who want to run a suspension fork in the first place. I seek out challenging dirt tracks, so suspension suits the way I travel. Plenty of tourers prefer a bike with a rigid fork, in which case front panniers work perfectly well. As an aside, a trailer can be a good solution for anyone with a frameset that doesn’t feature rack mounts – like a full suspension bike.
I like the idea of unhitching the trailer and having a relatively light, unimcumbered mountain bike, ready to hit the local trails. By using the trailer in harmony with a framebag and expandable seat pack, I effectively have a long range and short range tourer rolled in one.
Trailers catch the eye and the imagination, and can often be a great ice-breaker with locals – as long as you don’t mind fielding the same questions. Again and again.
Lastly, spreading the weight over a third wheel means noticeably less wear and tear to your wheels and tyres. Although it takes a short time to familiarise yourself with the side to side ‘tug’ of a trailer, overall, the bike feels lighter and more agile off road.
Trailer Bad
Briefly, downsides include a hefty weight penalty; in the case of the Mule, this is close to 8kg, as it came sent to me (with the kickstand and the liner). You’ll recoup a surprising amount of this heft with savings from the racks and panniers you won’t need to fit, but it’s still heavier. If you travel light and need only to pack two medium-weight panniers, it’s hard to justify the extra payload.
There’s also the logistical issues of getting the trailer to the start and end point of your ride, and the extra complications of dealing with a longer bike – whether that be riding in the city, parking up your bike on the street, or negotiating your way to the 3rd floor of a guesthouse. When it comes to travel, trailers tend to be regarded with suspicion, particularly on planes, trains and boats – which can translate into extra transportation fees and headaches.
Single wheel trailer can be awkward to hitch when travelling solo – though this is something the Mule addresses.
And lastly, that third wheel converts into extra rolling resistance too.
So..
The only real way to get a feel for the Mule is to use it – take it away camping, ride it in the city, and put it on a train. Which is what I intend to do…

The Mule's attention to detail is impressive. The chromo frame and cordura liner are beautifully finished. I'm using an Ortlieb roll top bag, but there's an integrated waterproof shell if you're not. One advantage of trailers is their ability to carry oddly-shaped kit - like long tent poles, a tripod, a solar panel, a guitar or a yoga mat.

The arm is relatively quick to remove, by loosening two allen key bolts off and pulling out a grenade-style pin. This makes the trailer much easier to deal with off the bike. Likewise, the fork and wheel can all be removed for easier transportation.

Uber engineering. Detatching the trailer, via the quick release, is straightforward. Like the rest of the build, the bearings are high quality affairs.

The position of the mount rules out an expandable seat pack of the kind I like to use. You can adjust the height of mount, so the saddle can still be dropped for steep technical descents. There's room for a rear rack, for those whose needs exceed the 30kg maximum payload.

The air suspension is also ajustable from 160mm to 120mm, which drops or raises the trailer for street/off road use.

Solo travel with a trailer can be awkward - it can be a balancing act to hitch it to your bike alone. In the case of the Mule, a simple clasp releases an integrated stand, stowed under the frame.

Once released, the stand takes the weight of the trailer, making packing and hitching a breeze.
Pedal Damn it: bikepacking in the Purbeck
September 1, 2011
As much as I love to travel the world, there are few places as beautiful as the English countryside on a fine summer’s day, and few spots as perfect as the Dorset coastline when the sun is glinting out to sea.
Since my lung operation, I’ve been impatiently counting down days before I felt ready to bike, and eventually travel again. South America already seems a distant land, but I’m determined not to let my plans to return there slip away.
I’m feeling better day by day. Sleeping on a Thermarest is still a little awkward, and hysterical laughter reduces me to yelps of pain… With the stitches healing up nicely, I figured I’d ease my way back into the saddle with a bikepacking trip to the Purbeck Hills, using my parents home in Dorset as a base. This is where my love of mountain biking was born, so it seemed a fitting place to return to. What’s more, it would also provide the quintessential English experience for Nancy, visiting from the US.
Situated on the south west coast, the Isle of Purbeck has long been one of my favourite stomping grounds. While the mountain biking may not be technical, it’s sure to work the lungs. And considering its diminutive size, this little parcel of land really packs in the big views.

Despite its name, Isle of Purbeck is actually a peninsula. It often feels like an island though, with its seascape vistas in almost every direction. This view is looking back towards Poole's vast natural harbour, second only to Sydney in size. (photo Nancy Crowell)

Long, steep and sometimes rocky climbs are rewarded by meandering, ridgetop rambles.

From up high, mellow views are the order of the day. The Purbeck is a land of gently rolling, almost manicured hills. Its sheep-nibbled and cow-munched pastures seem freshly mown.

Big sunset skies...

...encourage late afternoon rides.

There are campsites, often in simple fields, dotted all across the peninsula. Nancy and I preferred to stealth camp up on Swyre Head, the highest point of the Purbeck Hills, affording views out to the Isle of Wight.

First though, Frisbee Action. As it happens, this frisbee just squeezes into my Camelbak, with the added bonus that it doubles as a plate come dinner.

Then the cooking began, as the last, golden beams of the summer's afternoon clipped the hill tops.

I love a kitchen with some space and a decent view.

Fresh carrots and spring onions came courtesy of my parent's garden, cooked up on the Mini Trangia. To these we added diced ginger, red lentils and couscous, a wholesome concoction that more than satisfied our grumbling bellies.

Along with a handfull of sweet and tasty figs, also homegrown.

Our view, looking out towards Clavell Tower at Kimmeridge, as we dined.

More ridgetop cruising in the morning.

Attack of the Cows: Purbeck's lawn mowers take a break from maintaining the perfectly manicured landspcape to stampede us. (photo Nancy Crowell)

Trailside poppies.

The Purbeck is famed for its Jurassic Coastline, its rocks embedded with dinosaur footprints. This is the view below Worth Matravers, just a short walk away from the fabled Square and Compass pub, home to cider and pasties.

A geographer's paradise: the limestone arch and pebble beach of Durdle Door. Here, we leapt into the sea and braved frigid waters for an invigorating swim.

The crumbling remains of Corfe Castle, poking out above the common. The site dates back to the 11th Century. (photo Nancy Crowell)

Bike Club: the telltale marks of battles with oily chainrings.

My rig. I'm still honing my ultimate bikepacking setup, based around a Surly Troll, clad in Porcelain Rocket clothing.

A key ingredient is this PR expandable seat pack - or Booster Rocket, as it's called. It's effectively the modern day version of a Carradice saddlebag, and gulps down a 3/4 Thermarest, Tyvek groundsheet, Black Diamond Megalight tarp and a change of clothes, with room still for a pair of Crocs bungeed below.

The Top Tube Pack fits snacks, a knife, headtorch and a rear LED. Mine has been coolified with a patch from local bikeshop Charlie the Bikemonger.

In my pursuit to carry ever more H20, I'm trying a King Cage adaptor. It replaces the top cap bolt on the stem to provide a mount for another water bottle cage.

Nancy rode this Thorn Catalyst, to which we fitted a Trek rack, integrated rackop bag, a mini Top Tube Snack Pack and an Ortlieb bar bag. No problems there, until we noticed, some miles later, that the bag had been unceremoniously ejected from the bike on a rough descent. Luckily, a kindly rambler picked it up and dropped it off at Swange Police Station.

The Refuel. No visit to the seaside is complete without a portion of hand cut, greasy chips at the local chippy...
Purbeck Tips
Wareham has a train station for car-free travel. Check out the health food store there, Purbeck Wholefoods, for loading up with supplies. Their muesli is delicious, as are their yoghurt coated flapjacks.
For wholesome, locally sourced grub, there’s the Salt Pig, also in Wareham. Free wifi access too.
There’s a bike shop at the train station for all your basic needs, and another in Swanage, by the name of Charlie the Bikemonger: ’purveyor of damned fine 29er, singlespeed and fixed produce’.
Timewarp. Great fish and chips are to be enjoyed amongst the squarking seagulls and squabbling kids in Swanage.
For the full Purbeck experience, sip a pint of cider and a tuck into a pasty at the Square and Compass, Worth Matravers.
Camera Talk
These photos were taken with a Panasonic GH2, using Lumix 14mm (28mm), 20mm (40mm) and 45-200mm (90-400mm) lenses.





