while out riding

Hiking in Flagstaff.

We didn't have much luck with the weather during our visit to the Grand Canyon, though the moody storms did make for some dramatic views. This is the incredible panorama from Shoshone Point. I'd love to come back and hike in the canyon itself.

Closing in on Monument Valley, just over the border in Utah, and the backdrop to many a John Ford western.

And as an avid fan of this film maker, it had been dad's dreams to visit the valley. We stayed in the incredible, and appropriately named, View Hotel on the Navajo Reservation. Despite its contemporary architecture, from afar the hotel is completely camouflaged amongt the surrounding rock striations. Najavo run and owned, its interior is beautifully bedecked with local art, yet refreshingly down to earth. A memorable stay, though I did notice the free campsite next door shared that same stunning view...

We arrived in time for sunset, just as a dark shadow was spilling across the valley. Keen to get out on a run, I followed the Wild Cat Trail that looped around the central, awe-inspiring redrock butte in this photo, listening to Neil Young on my MP3 player. An amazing experience...

We also made it to the San Carlos Reservation, on the outskirts of Globe. Unfortunately, our accommodation for the night was a motel adjoining the Apache Gold Casino... The windowless halls, strip lighting, slot machines and incessant, electronic noise left me numb, so I watched Law and Order reruns instead.

This is the former copper mining town of Jerome, perched high in the valley and looking out over Cottonwood and Sedona. A far cry from its boom times of the 1920s, Jerome's population has now shrunk from 15 000 to 450, a large portion of whom are artists and artisans.

The basketball court at the alternative settlement of Jerome. Note well positioned peace symbol...

"Mall Wart. Your source for cheap plastic crap."

The remains of Main Street, home to the Connor Hotel, our characterful lodging for the night. Although nowadays Jerome is clearly a tourist town, its well worth visiting for its pastel coloured, Victorian houses and red brick warehouses that have been beautifully restored. Rare in the US, there wasn't even a corporate motel in sight.

This establishment dates back to 1898. Built by an Irish American, it was billed as second to none in the Southwest.

Historical information panels bring the town's eclectic history to life. A few buildings along was Jennie's Place, built by the legendary madam, Jennie Bauters from Belgium. At the time of her murder in 1905, she was reputed to be the wealthiest woman in the Arizona territory.

Jerome is also famed for its Halloween and Day of the Dead celebrations, being so close to Mexico.

Americana detail. Guns, whether for real or hanging on a wall, are part of the American way - as seen on this beaten up Chevrolet.

And the venerable Ford F series, another photo for my collection. This is a truck that's kept me company all the way from Alaska to Guatemala...

M(o)m getting friendly with the locals.

I've always loved murals. and Flagstaff isn't short on them.

Weird but wonderful flamingo display in a random back yard.

With halloween round the corner, each one was suitably dressed up to share in the festivities.

A veritable riot of fall colours.

Classic old Ford. Love the baby blue finish.

This one too. One in every household, so it seemed.

Don't they say it was the truck that built America?

More street mooching... We're both happy to potter round the streets and sit in Macy's cafe, a wonderful hangout, rather than tick off the list of tourist sites.

Flagstaff has retained its fair share of old Americana details, with its railway line bisecting town and weather faded placards dotting the streets. In the 1890s, this was one of the busiest railways corridors in the US.

Josh had kindly offered to lend us a tandem. We have yet to take him on this, but we did rent a car (yes, a Toyota Prius) to drive up into the hills for a hike around the Snowbowl. Incidentally, these cars are impressively economical. I reckon we drove more than 120 miles for just over $6, with no pollution in town.

The six and a half mile road makes a great climb, and roadies were out in full force. This is near where I camped while riding the AZT, which skirts below the Snowbowl.

Whispering aspens.

And south, via a series of precarious switchbacks, to the deserts of low lying Sedona, just 30 miles away. It was a bare knuckled drive. With mum at the wheel - I mislaid my license - it was almost as exhausting as riding. For both of us.

Well worth the trip though, with its slabs of redrock, mesas, and cacti. To keep me from going stir crazy, I've dusted off my trail running shoes, which will help supplement our more sedate walks. I'll have to return one day on two wheels, as there's some great mountain biking there too.

Ma.