Well, it was, at least a few weeks ago, when 160,000 pairs of Magellanic penguins crammed into every square inch of Isla Magdalena. Now, it’s just the stragglers that are left. A bit like me, really. Always late. Still, they’re …
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Puerto Natales-Morro Chico-Villa Tehuelches-Río Verde-Beachcombing-Punta Arenas
I have Skyler, a Canadian cyclist travelling a few days ahead of me on his Surly ECR, to thank for this wonderful slice of beachside good fortune.
The note I found stuck …
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A few stray photos needed a home, so here they are… This is the stretch of ‘ripio’ from the border post of Cerro Castillo to Puerto Natales, that skirts just south of the Torres del Paine National Park. The …
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This last week, I’ve swapped fat tyres for trekking poles, to hike through the Torres del Paine National Park – a startling land of granite towers, emerald lakes, clear streams, verdant forests, and seas of aquamarine glaciers (plus a constantly …
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Its sounds are almost as impressive as the sight itself. An incessant soundtrack of gurgles and murmurs; of deep, resonant rumbles and thunderous crunches. In this frozen river of ice, a soft, ethereal blue light seeps through cracks and crevices, …
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El Calafate-El Cerrito-Tapi Aike-Cerro Castillo
On the bolt-straight roads of the Argentinian pampa, my handlebars stay true, but my thoughts wander… For this a pensive place, and one that stirs memories and emotion; like a calling to fill this …
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Note to self: never neglect the road less travelled. It’s so easy to do, in the rush from a to b. For that yearning sense of arrival, we sometimes sacrifice a little of the journey.
Indeed, as much as …
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Sometimes, it feels ok to stop riding, stretch the legs, and remind myself what life as a biped feels like. Especially when I find myself in a spot like Los Glaciares National Park, in Argentinian Patagonia.
Comparable to Chile’s well …
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El Chaltén-El Calefate; 220km.
I’ve quickly come to realise that riding in Patagonia involves strategic hops from one windfree or rain-sheltered enclave to another. Like hallowed secrets, the exact locations of these sanctuaries are passed around between the international touring …
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