while out riding

Summer 09

I arrived in Alaska on July 4th 2009, with the intention of beginning my journey at the most northerly point on the American continent, Prudoe Bay.

Why Alaska?

Beginning above the Arctic circle seemed like a nice foundation for wherever I rode next; a sense of context to the journey. Before I left, I decided not to set an end destination. It was always more important to me how I travelled, rather than how far I travelled. Mexico? Panama? Argentina? My plan was to see which ran out first… money or inclination.

All that I knew, when I first set off, was that I wanted to experience Alaska’s open spaces, its midnight sun, explore its singletrack and ride dirt tracks southwards wherever I could. This plan hinged around heading east through British Colombia, away from the coast, to link up with the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, tracing the Continental Divide from Canada to Mexico.

The GDMBR, which crosses the US on a network of 90 per cent dirt and forestry roads, turned out to be a highlight of this whole journey. It was exactly what I was looking for, and it served to reaffirm how keeping to lesser-travelled trails resonated with how I aspired to travel.

With this in mind, I’ve tried to weave in dirt roads where possible, and singletrack where rideable with a fully laden bike. I’ve also taken time out for separate mountain biking side trips, like the Arizona Trail, the Kokopelli Trail and Utah’s Canyonlands.

Digging up the Dirt

Everyone has their own style of touring. I keep to dirt roads as they tend to be quiet. Paved highways are quick and direct, but not necessarily enjoyable. Battling for a place on the American highways can be a stressful experience.

For this reason, I prefer to be spending my time wending my way along more remote backroads, even if these can take twice as long to ride. Often, simply figuring out a route can be half the challenge, especially as local maps can be woefully fictitious. But it’s by persevering and riding these tracks that I really get chance to explore, interact with people and communities, and escape the constant drone of the automobile.

How long will I be gone?

I have the luxury of an open timescale, with savings and a planned work schedule to tide me through for the time being. After two years on the road, I’ve had to take a break in the ride to the return to the UK, for medical reasons. This has given me the chance to get some more money together.

The journey so far…

Kenai Peninsula Singletrack Loop

Haul Road: Deadhorse to Fairbanks

Fairbanks to Yukon via Denali Highway (a dirt road), with singletrack side trips in Whitehorse and Carcross

Inner Passage ferry, via Haines and Sitka

BC and Alberta, Canada: Price Rupert to Jasper

Jasper to Banff via Icefiields Parkway

Great Divide Ride with detours…

Montana (with singletrack detours to Bozeman and Missoula)

Idaho

Wyoming

Detour off route to Colorado and Utah (Fruita, Moab, Kokopelli Trail and Lockheart Basin Road)

New Mexico (singletrack side trip in Gallup and Silver City)

Dirt road crossing of the Sierra Madre, Northern Mexico, via the Copper Canyon

Central Mexico dirt and backroads – Durango, Zacatecas and Jalisco

Pacific Coast paved – Michuacan, Guerrero, Oaxaca

Chiapas and Yucatan road loop out to the Gulf and Caribbean Coasts, Merida, Tulum and Bakala

Belize – jungle track traverse from Orange Walk to the Guatemalan border

Guatemala, voluntary work at MayaPedal, and second dirt road forray into Chiapas and northern Guatemala, plus hike to Mirador

Side trip back to the US to recover from bronchitis, see folks, ride the Arizona Trail, Utah’s Canyonlands dirt road loop, plus AZ’s Sedona and Flagstaff singletrack

Paved central Cuban road loop out of Havana.

Resume journey: Guatemalan Highlands to Honduran Caribbean Coast, via Bay Islands, paved and dirt roads.

La Meskitia – singletrack and dugout canoe adventure linking Honduras with Nicaragua, through this little travelled region.

Nicaragua – dirt roads south from Puerto Cabezas through RAAN, along the Pacific Coast and around idyllic Isla de Ometepe (with a 15 month baby!).

Costa Rica – dirt roads through the Volcan Rincon de la Vieja. Then more trails and beach riding round the edge of the Nicoya Peninsula. Following paved roads, traversed the country via Alajuela once more to the Caribbean coast to Puerto Limon and Puerto Viejo.

Panama – side trip out to the islands of Bocas del Toro, then back over the mountains towards David to the Pacific coast, before following the paved and increasingly busy Panamerican Highway to Panama City. Sail boat through the San Blas to Cartagena, Colombia.

Colombia – paved and dirt (and muddy!) roads from Cartagena to Mompos. Highway to Bucaramanga, then dirt back roads to Barichara and San Gil. Dirt roads through San Juan de la Montana to Duitama, hike and bike to Villa de Leyva and backroads to Bogota. Dirt roads to the Mocoa, via the Tatacoa Desert and San Angustin, before riding on to Pasto and the border.

Ecuador – dirt roads to Quito, the Paramo and Lago Mojanda.

From Quito, I had to take a break in the trip, and fly back to the UK for a lung operation. After 3 months recuperation and work, I returned to Colorado to ride a part of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route I missed on my way through.

By early 2012, I hope to be back in Quito, resuming my journey south.