Zipolite beach is famous for its bohemian, nudist tendencies, as well as its ferocious waves.

Not ideal swimming conditions…

But a good spot to hang out. Lots of jugglers, firedancers and bongo players. A real hippy vibe.

Mornings are good. Calm. A nice time to go for a run. As if cycling isn’t enough…

I prefered nearby Mazunte though, and its more protected cove. This was the view from the rustic, wonky cabana that I stayed in.

And here's the beach that marks the most westerly point in Mexico. Everyone gathers here to watch the red globe of the sun sink behind the watery horizon.

Mazunte was so good I had to return... On my second visit, I met up with the Brothers Volks, and camped with them in a yard away set back from the beach, which was packed by now with young and hip folk from Mexico City.

'I love Manzunte.' Me too... Up there with Maruata in my Mexican Beaches Hall of Fame.

At this time of year, Oaxaca is, however, ridiculously hot. 40s in the shade, and touching 50 in the sun. Riding is generally fine, but the moment you stop, rivulets of sweat come racing down your body and drench your clothes. It's hard to neck enough liquids to keep up.

Just like the sign says. ‘Look after the environment. Don’t throw out your rubbish.’

All that salt water air is wreaking havoc on my chain...

In a roadside diner - well, a few tables pulled up under a makeshift awning promising some welcome shade - I met a group of young artists from Mexico City. They invited me to join them at a remote beach on which they’d set up camp, at the end of five kilometre unmarked dirt road that wended its way towards the pacific from the main highway. To get there I had to cross a river, hoisting my bike and kit aloft in shuttle runs. The water level was literally right up to my chin. The campspot was on a sand bar, and we built a moat around it to protect it from errant waves.

An idyllic spot. Like marooned sailors, we went for an exploratory walk towards the distant rock.

We had the whole beach, several kilometres long, to ourselves…

In the morning, I awoke early to watch sun catching on the waves as they curled in.

And gaze out at the pelicans soaring along them.

Goodbye beaches of the Pacific...